Sewing tips

Avoiding Clothing Pattern Intimidation

Want to make new clothes from patterns? Overwhelmed by the information on the pattern envelope? Too intimidated to buy or use a clothing pattern? This post is about avoiding clothing pattern intimidation.

Introduction

You can update your wardrobe by sewing your own clothes. Your first option is cloning your clothes. You can also buy patterns (with instructions) to guide you. Occasionally experienced sewers get poor results when sewing clothes from patterns. My own experience with the Aurelis blouse  is an example. Less experienced sewers may be intimidated by the information on a pattern envelope or the pattern website. Sometimes they won’t buy a pattern because they feel intimidated by it. If you understand what information is on a clothing pattern envelope, clothing pattern buying won’t be an intimidating experience.

Paper sewing patterns will have the same type of information regardless of the brand. Let’s break down one example together.

The front on a pattern envelope showing a you women wearing knitt top and legges
Example pattern envelope
Envelope Front

The front of a pattern envelope is like the front cover of a book; designed to entice you to make a purchase.

Brand & Pattern identifier

The brand (McCall’s) and pattern identifier (M7874) are like the author and title. Pattern identifiers may be numbers or names (eg Aurelis Summer Blouse).

McCall's M7874
Brand & pattern identifier
Photos/sketches

Photos and sketches of the finished garments demonstrate what your final sewing projects could look like. Some pattern envelopes contain multiple garments (tops & bottoms) or variations for a single garment (in this example, styles of necklines, contrasting panels and sleeve lengths).

Photos and sketches from pattern envelope
Photos & sketches
Sizes In the Envelope

Patterns are often available in multiple sizes and a pattern envelope may contain one size or a range of the available sizes.

Sizes in this envelope
Envelope Back

The back of a pattern envelope is like the back cover of a book; it provides a summary of the key information contained in the envelope.

Envelope Flap

The envelope flap has Metric and Imperial body measurement charts. Keep in mind that pattern sizes are not the same as ready to wear sizes. Know your body measurements in Metric or Imperial and compare them to the body measurement charts to determine which size(s) may work for you. Many people’s measurements are between sizes or are a mixture of sizes.

It’s common for the body measurements chart to contain the entire range of available sizes and the pattern envelope to contain a partial range of these sizes. Check carefully and/or buy multiple sizes if you’re not sure which size is right for you.

Envelope flap
Pattern description

A few short phrases or sentences that describe what garment(s) can be made from this pattern. Pattern difficulty is often indicated here. North American patterns may mention additional body measurement categories in the pattern description. Simplicity details some of the common ones:

  • MISSES’: About 5’5″ to 5’6″ (165cm to 167cm) height and a B cup with 2″ (5cm) difference between bust and high bust measurement.
  • MISS PETITE: About 5’2″ to 5’3″ (157cm to 160cm) height and a B cup with 2″ (5cm) difference between bust and high bust measurement.
  • WOMEN’S: About 5’5″ to 5’6″ (165cm to 167cm) height and a C cup with 1″ (2.5cm) difference between bust and high bust measurement..
  • WOMEN’S PETITE: About 5’2″ to 5’3″ (157cm to 160cm) height and a C cup with 1″ (2.5cm) difference between bust and high bust measurement..
  • MEN’S: For men of average build; about 5’10” height.
  • UNISEX: Unisex sizing is based on men’s measurements.
  • INFANTS: For babies who are not yet walking.
  • TODDLERS’: Between a baby and a child. Pants have diaper allowance.
  • CHILDREN: Child who is walking and not wearing diapers.
  • GIRLS/BOYS: For growing girl/boy who has not yet begun to mature.
Pattern description
Suggested Materials

These are the fabrics and notions that are required to complete the project(s). Pay attention to whether the pattern requires knitted or woven fabric. I have two similar looking garments in my pattern collection and one requires knitted fabric and the other woven. Fabrics come in a variety of weights and recommendations for fabric weight can also be found here. Notions are all the non-fabric items you will need for your garment. This includes zippers, elastic, buttons, hook and loop tape other fasteners, bias tape and interfacing.

Suggested materials
Fabric Requirements

This chart tells you how many meters or yards of fabric you need for each size of garment you’re making. Use your sizes from the body measurement chart.

Fabric requirements
Finished Garment Sizes

Finished garment sizes provide additional information about how tightly or loosely the garment is meant to fit. Compare the body size measurements to the fabric garment measurements. You can also compare the fabric garment measurements to garments that you already own.

Finished garment sizes
Line drawings

Detailed line drawings illustrate features of the garment that are difficult to show with photographs or sketches.

Line drawings
Stretch Gauge

If the garment requires knitted fabric, you may see stretch gauges on the back of the pattern envelope. Use them to ensure you are sewing your garment with the correct knitted fabric. Too much or too little stretch will adversely affect the fit of your finished garment.

Stretch gauge
Inside the Envelope

The pages inside the envelope are like the pages of a book; filled with information to help you complete the story of your garment.

Instructions

The majority of the instructions pages contain instructions for sewing your garment. Make sure your instructions have the same brand, same pattern identifier, and same line drawings as the envelope. There will be a sketch of the pattern pieces. The pattern markings or legend explains the symbols on the pattern pieces. Directions for how to layout and cut your fabric and cutting layout diagrams commonly appear next. There may also be a fabric key and glossary.

Pattern pieces

Pattern pieces may be printed on several large pieces of tissue paper or sturdier paper. The pattern pieces are printed close together (or overlapping) to reduce the amount of paper needed. Multiple sizes of the same pattern piece may also overlap. It’s common for a single pattern piece to be used more than once to create a garment. Labels like “cut one” and “cut two” will guide you.  Pattern pieces labeled “cut on fold” may represent half of a symmetrical piece of fabric you’ll be cutting. These additional details will be written on your pattern pieces.

Conclusion

Sewing patterns have a lot of information. Some may be written in more than one language. Even when only one language is presented, the volume of information can be overwhelming. Breaking it down into smaller, more manageable, and easier to understand sections, reduces the overwhelm and intimidation factor.

Did you enjoy this post about avoiding clothing pattern intimidation? Comment below and/or Pin me for later!

Tanya

Sewn By Tanya Sewing Tip | Avoiding Clothing Pattern Intimidation

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