Want to sew a bag using nylon or polyester? Not sure if your skills are equal to the task? This post will discuss “is sewing synthetics difficult”.
Introduction
I discussed the difference between natural, man-made and synthetic fibers in 2022. This post will focus on nylon and polyester. In my previous post, I mentioned that nylon, kelvar and canvas are common fabrics for slash-resistant bags. Nylon and polyester are common fabrics for backpacks, tents, and other items of outdoor gear. Many bag patterns recommend cotton fabrics. You can substitute nylon and/or polyester fabrics and complete your sewing project with your home sewing machine.
1) Weight
Cotton fabrics are available in a variety of weights such as voile, broadcloth, quilting weight, denim, canvas and cotton duck. All of these fabrics will have a different linear density and you may see grams per meter or (g/m) on the labels of fabric bolts. Another measurement that is commonly associated with synthetics like polyester and nylon is “denier”. Denier is abbreviated “D” and is the linear mass density of fibers measured in grams per 9000 meters of fiber.
Multiple fibers are used to create threads and multiple threads are used to create fabric. A single strand of silk 9000 m long would weigh 1 g so it has a denier of 1 and a 1 denier silk yarn would weight 1.2 g. A 1D piece of silk would be a fine, light fabric. Higher denier means a thicker, more durable fabric. Substitute a similar weight synthetic for cotton. I select the synthetic based on hand.
2) Uncoated Versus Coated
Polyester blouses, nylon pants, sleeping bags and bag linings are examples of items made with uncoated, woven synthetics (wicking shirts and leggings are made from uncoated, knitted synthetics). Woven synthetics may be coated with silicone, polyurethane (PU), or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) to make them water resistant or water proof. Coated synthetics range in denier from ~30D to ~1680D. Applications include kites, lightweight tents, weather resistant outerwear, bags and packs. Light denier synthetics are available in both coated and uncoated versions. Medium and heavy denier synthetics tend be available coated versions.
3) Needle & Thread
Universal sewing machine needles work well with both natural and synthetic fabrics []. Refer to a sewing machine needle size chart or guide (for example Schmetz Needles sewing machine needle chart) to select the best needle size for the weight of your synthetic fabric.
Woven synthetics tend to have some stretch compared to the similar weight of natural fabrics. Matching the fiber of your fabric and thread will help prevent increased wear and popped seams. Refer to thread guides or charts (for example Sailrite Selecting The Right Thread Size) to match the thread size to your needle size.
4) Sewing Tips
Prewash & Press
Fabrics made with natural fibers may shrink when washed so I always prewash them. Synthetic fabrics don’t shrink so this isn’t a concern. I prewash uncoated synthetics to remove any chemical residues from the manufacturing process. I don’t prewash coated synthetics as I want to protect the integrity of the coatings for as long a possible. Synthetics burn easily so use the appropriate temperature when ironing or pressing them.
Cut
Coated and uncoated nylon and polyester can fray. Sharp shears and/or a sharp rotary cuter will minimize fraying.. Carefully applying heat to the cut edges (I use an electric candle lighter) melts the edges slightly and reduces fraying. Sewing a small, narrow, zigzag stitch on the seam reduces seam fraying. Hemming, using seam binding and flat felled seams also protect the cut edges from fraying.
Sewing
Sew your nylon and/or polyester bag project with a new sewing machine needle. Both fabrics are slippery and coatings may be slippery or sticky. Pin holes may be permanent so use thin, sharp pins in the seam allowances or sewing clips to hold fabric layers together. Sewing through a strip of tissue paper with your universal presser foot or using either a Teflon foot or roller foot will help. Holding both thread ends at the beginning of a seam will prevent throat plate jams.
Conclusion
Compared to sewing cotton, is sewing synthetics difficult? Sewers who are new to sewing with nylon or polyester will find it challenging. They will benefit from practice with fabric scraps. If synthetics aren’t recommended in the bag pattern instructions, select a synthetic with a similar hand to the recommended fabric. Match your sewing machine needle and thread to the fabric you’ll be sewing. Be prepared for slippery and/or sticky fabric surfaces with tissue paper or alternate sewing machine feet.
Have you sewn a bag with nylon or polyester? Do you have any additional tips for making sewing synthetics less difficult? Comment below and/or Pin me for later!
Tanya
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